First time visitors to the Edwardian town of Dornoch may come
expecting something more rugged and isolated in this northern
zone, and are pleasantly surprised to find an elegant, rather
refined community in a setting that would be equally fitting in
Somerset or the Cotswolds. At its centre is the compact but engaging
form of Dornoch Cathedral, its friendly cruciform shape surrounded
by an island of grass and trees. The town became a bishopric in
1224 and the cathedral dates from then but, as is usual, the Victorians
chose to embellish the exterior and, to all accounts, made a right
mess of it. In 1924, to celebrate the cathedral's 700 years, the
outer fabric was restored to its former glory and it is now one
of the most welcoming of Scottish religious buildings.
Opposite the Tourist Information Office in the town square is
Dornoch Craft Centre and Town Jail, a rather curious but effective
combination. Open daily except in winter, the restored jail gives
an impression of conditions in a nineteenth century prison although
most of the inmates were probably guilty of too much libation
rather than any serious crime. The craft shop is a little Spartan
with a few odd woollen ties along with some books and tins of
short bread. There is also a coffee shop.
Golf was played in this area at least as far back as 1616 when
the Earl of Sutherland was recorded to have ordered golf clubs
and balls to take up the game that was becoming so popular further
south. This makes Royal Dornoch the third oldest golfing community
in Scotland and it is definitely one of the most rewarding. The
course would be an Open venue if its situation was more accessible
to the modern world and its transport links. Thankfully, for those
that love to play crowd-free golf on one of the world's finest
courses, Royal Dornoch Golf Course remains out of reach of the
masses.