
The Tain Peninsula forms the boundary of Easter Ross with two
routes crossing it, the A836 heading directly north to Bonar Bridge
or the more travelled A9 across the new Dornoch Bridge and all
points beyond. With Glenmorangie Distillery on its doorstep producing
the best selling malt whisky in Scotland, the market town of Tain
has an air of malted barley as well as noble antiquity. The Glenmorangie
Distillery and Visitor Centre is open throughout the year. The
name means 'Glen of Tranquility' which is particularly apt for
lovers of this fine malt.
The Tain and District Museum in Castle Brae, just off the High
Street, forms a good introduction to the town's past as well as
being the Clan Ross Centre. The Tolbooth is the most distinctive
piece of architecture, a sixteenth century tower with an equally
ancient bell. Tain golf course, laid out near the Whiteness Sands
and overlooking the Firth to Dornoch, has the makings of a true
links course and was designed by Old Tom Morris.
The rest of the Tain Peninsula is rather bleak with the countenance
of heavy oil-associated industry marring the southern shores.
The community of Shandwick is known for its caves and a cross
slab standing 9ft (3m) tall and occupying a field above the village.
It was erected in memory of three Norse princes who were shipwrecked
near here. The nearby villages are not so attractive with modern
holiday bungalows as well as jets constantly roaring overhead
from Lossiemouth on the opposite side of the Firth.
The erection of the relatively new Dornoch Bridge has saved much
motoring time by cutting off an 18 mile (29km) trip around the
Dornoch Firth via Bonar Bridge and back along the other side.
Now the A9 slices across the Firth but there are good reasons,
unless you are in a hurry to travel north, to continue along the
old A9 towards Bonar Bridge. There is a turning just before Bonar
Bridge to Strath Carron and Croick Church, some 10 miles (16km)
up the glen. Here, in the spring of 1845, the families who had
been evicted from their crofts in Glencalvie sought shelter in
makeshift lean-tos and scratched messages on the church windows
that can still be read. 'Glencalvie people was here, May 24th
1845,' reads one. Another states 'Glencalvie people, the accursed
generation' while a more sardonic message notes, 'This place needs
cleaning.